Monday, 26 February 2018

Joblot 2016 - another year in which the Chalonnaise superstar betters its northern rivals?

Pound for pound (or should that be euro for euro), I doubt there is an estate in Burgundy producing higher quality wines at such (comparatively) low prices as Givry's Domaine Joblot. Year after year, this is a producer that makes wines that are better than many in the more illustrious Cote d'Or but, at around £25 or so a bottle, there is little - beyond basic Bourgogne Rouge - that can match these wines for price.

Now, don't get me wrong, Bourgogne Rouge can be very good indeed when it comes from some of the better producers' stables but they are always north of £20 these days and don't often match the most basic wine in the Joblot range which, from 2016, bears the moniker 'Preface'. This is their village Givry and its youthful, pretty nose offers good fruit weight and perfume. The length is good for this level and there is no reason to doubt that this wine will develop extremely nicely. Definite notions of stewed plums here and a hint of cinnamon perhaps with plenty of high notes. Good acidity. I would prefer to revisit this later next year.

Moving up a notch (actually, several), to the two wines that normally vie for the top spot: 'Clos du Cellier aux Moines' and 'Servoisine', both Premier Cru Givry. The former is generally the more elegant of the two whilst the latter offers more structure and power. This is true in 2016: Servoisine is a little shy to begin with but, with a little coaxing, reveals sweet fruit albeit tightly defined. From 2022? The monk's cellar is quite dark and has deep fruit character and undeniable tannins but it is more generous than the Servoisine at this stage though still slightly shy. Some new oak is evident in both and they both finish a little short now but they will lengthen as the tannins integrate. The fruit on the Cellier is prettier and will probably always be - from 2021.

Juliette Joblot has crafted a new cuvee in 2016 from a blend of all the Premier Cru Givry wines the family owns (the above two together with Clos Marole and Bois Chevaux). This 'Empreinte' is bigger, richer and the tannins seem more in check here. Very fragrant. Lots going on here. Quite forward: I will look forward to more of this from 2021. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts!